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Product Description:- The 'Wave Standard Lav' Sink Mold for concrete sink fabrication.
- The Wave is a flowing wave shape, with a 5 degree side and a 15 degree side (one 'vertical' side is angled to 15 degrees, and the other is angled to 5 degrees). The wave shape flows to one centralized drain.
- A continuous 'Wave' can be achieved by using multiple Molds next to each other, and joining the mold ends that butt together with modeling clay, bondo, wax, or similar product to make a smooth transition.
- Small style drain for bathroom lavatory size drains.
- Create a seamless integral concrete sink and counter top, or form around to create a vessel sink.
- Dura-BLU fiberglass Molds are reusable indefinitely with proper care.
- Dura-BLU molds have the highest grade Industrial Gelcoat finish.
- Dura-BLU Molds are made using the strongest commercial-grade resin, NOT out of GP (General Purpose fiberglass resin).
- Each Dura-BLU Mold has an Internal Flange:
- Inner Flange further strengthens and braces the Mold.
- Creates a platform to screw into; securing the Mold to the form.
- Allows clamps to be used to lift stuck Molds out of cured concrete.
- Each Sink Mold comes with a disposable foam drain hole knockout. Additional Foam Knockouts available here.
Warranty Information:- All Dura-BLU Molds have Lifetime Guarantee against defect. This Guarantee does not cover misuse of the Molds (Dropping the Mold, Prying the Mold out using a screwdriver, Driving onto it with a truck tire... etc.).
- Expressions LTD will not be held liable for any damage, misuse, or collateral damages resulting from use of any of our products. If there is a flaw or defect with a product, we will fix or replace the product.
Product Specifications: - Wave Standard Lav Sink Mold Measurements:
- Length: 29" (Across)
- Width: 14 1/4" (Front-To-Back)
- Depth*: 6 3/4" (At Drain)
- *Depth
can be adjusted by trimming/sanding down the Mold to your desired
depth, but you may lose the Internal Flange that is in the Dura-BLU
Molds if you trim very much.
- Sides to Dura-BLU Molds have at least a 5° slope to ensure Mold removal from concrete.
Mold Use:
- Watch videos of Mold Setup, Casting, and De-Molding/Removal on our Video Page.
- A basic Sink Mold Instruction sheet is available here.
Mold Setup:- When
planning, remember to add 1" - 2" to each side of the sink to your
measurements, to account for the concrete thickness on the sides of the
finished sink.
- IMPORTANT!
Most customers will want to take a Scotch-Brite pad (or about a 200
grit sandpaper) and lightly buff the Dura-Blu Mold prior to use. This
scuffing of the surface will allow the Mold Release Wax to stick onto
the Mold better, and help prevent excessive sticking to the concrete
when de-molding. Dura-Blu Molds are shipped with a high-gloss gelcoat
finish for those who require a mirror-like finish in the concrete
sink... but who are usually prepared for a more difficult time removing
the mold!
- Apply 2-3 coats of a Mold Release Wax (sold here), lightly buffing between coats once it hazes.
- Apply small amounts of silicone to the Mold's rim, and set in place in your form. Allow silicone to dry.
- Screws
can be used to secure the Mold if necessary. Using screws of the
appropriate length, screw through the bottom of the form, up into the
Internal Flange of the Sink Mold.
- Run a smooth silicone bead
around perimeter of the Sink Mold, where it meets the form base (using a
tool such as our Caulking Ball Tool makes this process very clean and
easy). Silicone a Disposable Foam Drain Knockout (supplied with Mold),
or Reusable Rubber Knockout, on to Mold. Allow silicone to dry.
- Apply a thin coat of Fiberglass Safe Form Release (sold here) to the Mold just prior to casting the concrete piece.
Concrete Casting: - Various methods can be used to cast the concrete piece.
- GFRC: Cement and fiberglass is sprayed on and hand packed into the form and around the Mold.
- Wetcast:
Oatmeal consistency concrete is placed in form and around the Mold and
vibrated. A simple box should be built around the Sink Mold, to contain
the concrete during this process.
- Hand Packed:
A drier concrete mix is hand packed into the form and around the Mold. A
second step after de-molding will fill the voids with cement slurry,
usually of a different coloring.
- Any voids in the concrete can be filled using a cement slurry (sold here).
- Mix your own slurry by mixing Portland cement, Cenospheres (sold here), and water (or water/Polyplex mix).
Mold Removal:- If the steps above were followed for the Mold Setup, then most Molds will usually pull out of the concrete with little effort.
- If the mold is difficult to remove, try:
- Compressed air shot around the Mold rim will break the suction holding the Mold in the concrete.
- Adding cold water and ice to the inside of the mold for 10 minutes will shrink the mold just enough that removal is easier.
- Using
a few blocks of foam against the concrete, place a 2x4 across the Mold,
and pry the Mold out using some large C-clamps, or wood working
clamps. Do not over-tighten the clamps, just put some pressure on them
and then resume shooting compressed air around the Mold's rim. Add a
little more pressure to the clamps, and repeat the air until the mold
comes free.
- Most Molds can be pushed out of the concrete by removing the drain plug, and pushing the Mold out through the drain hole.
Mold Clean-up and Care:- Clean
Mold with a sponge after each use. Any dried cement residue can be
removed with a scotch-brite pad (as outlined above in the Mold Setup
section. A light muriatic acid wash (20:1, 20 parts water to 1 part
muriatic acid) can also remove cement scale.
- Waxing and buffing the Mold
after cleaning it use is recommended to protect the Mold until its next use.
- Damage:
Any damaged areas (chips, scratches, imperfections, etc.) can be
repaired using 2-Part epoxy (available for a few
dollars at any hardware store- comes in a double syringe). Mix the
epoxy, clean the damaged area and apply the epoxy to the damaged area. Sand smooth when dry. Wet sanding
the Mold will return the damaged area to a high gloss if desired. Bondo
can also be used, although it usually won't stick to the Mold as strong
as epoxy will.
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