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Product Specifications:
- DB32 30" Sloped Farm Sink Mold Measurements:
- Length: 30" (Across)
- Width: 14" Top of Finished Sink, 10" Bottom of Finished Sink.
- Depth*: 10"
- *Depth can be adjusted by trimming/sanding down the Mold to your desired depth, but you may lose the Internal Flange that is in the Dura-BLU Molds if you trim very much.
- Sides to Dura-BLU Molds have at least a 5° slope to ensure Mold removal from concrete.
Product Description:
- The 'Sloped Farm' Sink Mold for concrete sink fabrication.
- Unique sloped front design. Drain is offset to one end of the Mold.
- Create a seamless integral concrete sink and counter top, or form around to create a vessel farm sink.
- Dura-BLU fiberglass Molds are reusable indefinitely with proper care.
- Dura-BLU molds have the highest grade Industrial Gelcoat finish.
- Dura-BLU Molds are made using the strongest commercial-grade resin.
- Each Dura-BLU Mold has an Internal Flange:
- Inner Flange further strengthens and braces the Mold.
- Creates a platform to screw into; securing the Mold to the form.
- Allows clamps to be used to lift stuck Molds out of cured concrete.
- Each Sink Mold comes with a disposable foam drain hole knockout. Additional Foam Knockouts available here.
- A kitchen size re-usable Rubber Drain Plug is available here.
- Oversized, Extra-Deep kitchen drain hardware designed for thicker concrete sinks sold here.
- All Dura-BLU Molds have Lifetime Guarantee against defect. This Guarantee does not cover misuse of the Molds (Dropping the Mold, Prying the Mold out using a screwdriver, Driving onto it with a truck tire... etc.).
- Expressions LTD will not be held liable for any damage, misuse, or collateral damages resulting from use of any of our products. If there is a flaw or defect with a product, we will fix or replace the product.
Mold Use:
- Watch videos of Mold Setup, Casting, and De-Molding/Removal on our YouTube Video Page.
- A basic Sink Mold Instruction sheet is available here.
- When planning, remember to add 1" - 2" to each side of the sink to your measurements, to account for the concrete thickness on the sides of the finished sink.
- IMPORTANT! Most customers will want to take a Scotch-Brite pad (or about a 200 grit sandpaper) and lightly buff the Dura-Blu Mold prior to use. This scuffing of the surface will allow the Mold Release Wax to stick onto the Mold better, and help prevent excessive sticking to the concrete when de-molding. Dura-Blu Molds are shipped with a high-gloss gelcoat finish for those who require a mirror-like finish in the concrete sink... but who are usually prepared for a more difficult time removing the mold!
- Apply 2-3 coats of a Mold Release Wax to the mold, lightly buffing between coats once it hazes.
- Apply small amounts of silicone to the Mold's rim, and set in place in your form. Allow silicone to dry.
- Screws can be used to secure the Mold if necessary. Using screws of the appropriate length, screw through the bottom of the form, up into the Internal Flange of the Sink Mold.
- Run a smooth silicone bead around perimeter of the Sink Mold, where it meets the form base (using a tool such as our Caulking Ball Tool makes this process very clean and easy). Silicone a Disposable Foam Drain Knockout (supplied with Mold), or Reusable Rubber Knockout, on to Mold. Allow silicone to dry.
- Apply a thin coat of Fiberglass Safe Form Release to the Mold just prior to casting the concrete piece.
- Various methods can be used to cast the concrete piece.
- GFRC: Cement and fiberglass is sprayed on and hand packed into the form and around the Mold.
- Wetcast: Oatmeal consistency concrete is placed in form and around the Mold and vibrated. A simple box should be built around the Sink Mold, to contain the concrete during this process.
- Hand Packed: A drier concrete mix is hand packed into the form and around the Mold. A second step after de-molding will fill the voids with cement slurry, usually of a different coloring.
- Any voids in the finished concrete can be filled using a Cement Slurry.
- Mix your own slurry by mixing Portland cement, Cenospheres, and water (or water/Polyplex mix).
- If the steps above were followed for the Mold Setup, then most Molds will usually pull out of the concrete with little effort.
- If the mold is difficult to remove, try:
- Compressed air shot around the Mold rim will break the suction holding the Mold in the concrete.
- Adding cold water and ice to the inside of the mold for 10 minutes will shrink the mold just enough that removal is easier.
- Using a few blocks of foam against the concrete, place a 2x4 across the Mold, and pry the Mold out using some large C-clamps, or wood working clamps. Do not over-tighten the clamps, just put some pressure on them and then resume shooting compressed air around the Mold's rim. Add a little more pressure to the clamps, and repeat the air until the mold comes free.
- Most Molds can be pushed out of the concrete by removing the drain plug, and pushing the Mold out through the drain hole.
- Clean Mold with a sponge after each use. Any dried cement residue can be removed with a scotch-brite pad (as outlined above in the Mold Setup section. A light muriatic acid wash (20:1, 20 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid) can also remove cement scale.
- Waxing and buffing the Mold after cleaning it use is recommended to protect the Mold until its next use.
- Damage: Any damaged areas (chips, scratches, imperfections, etc.) can be repaired using 2-Part epoxy (available for a few dollars at any hardware store- comes in a double syringe). Mix the epoxy, clean the damaged area and apply the epoxy to the damaged area. Sand smooth when dry. Wet sanding the Mold will return the damaged area to a high gloss if desired. Bondo can also be used, although it usually won't stick to the Mold as strong as epoxy will.
- DB32 30" Sloped Farm Sink Mold Measurements:
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