- DB23 Vessel Bowl Sink Mold Measurements:
- Diameter: 15 3/8"
- Depth*: 5 1/4" (At Drain)
- Diameter: 18 1/2"
- Depth*: 6 3/4" (At Drain)
- The 'Vessel Bowl' Sink Molds for concrete sink fabrication.
- The Vessel Bowl Molds creates a round bowl vessel sink.
- A two part mold- Includes the Inner Bowl Mold (also sold individually), and Outer Vessel Bowl Shell Mold.
- The Inner Bowl Mold can be used alone to make integral sinks. If you already have the Bowl Mold, you can just order the outer shell Mold from the drop-down menu above.
- Vessel Molds can easily turn leftover concrete into revenue earning concrete sinks.
- Small style drain for bathroom lavatory size drains.
- Create a seamless integral concrete sink and counter top, or form around to create a vessel sink.
- Dura-BLU fiberglass Molds are reusable indefinitely with proper care.
- Dura-BLU molds have the highest grade Industrial Gelcoat finish.
- Dura-BLU Molds are made using the strongest commercial-grade resin, NOT out of GP (General Purpose fiberglass resin).
- All Dura-BLU Molds have Lifetime Guarantee against defect. This Guarantee does not cover misuse of the Molds (Dropping the Mold, Prying the Mold out using a screwdriver, Driving onto it with a truck tire... etc.).
- Expressions LTD will not be held liable for any damage, misuse, or collateral damages resulting from use of any of our products. If there is a flaw or defect with a product, we will fix or replace the product.
- Watch videos of Mold Setup, Casting, and De-Molding/Removal on our Video Page.
- IMPORTANT! Most customers will want to take a Scotch-Brite pad (or about a 200 grit sandpaper) and lightly buff the Dura-Blu Mold prior to use. This scuffing of the surface will allow the Mold Release Wax to stick onto the Mold better, and help prevent excessive sticking to the concrete when de-molding. Dura-Blu Molds are shipped with a high-gloss gelcoat finish for those who require a mirror-like finish in the concrete sink... but who are usually prepared for a more difficult time removing the mold!
- Apply 2-3 coats of a Mold Release Wax to both Inner and Outer Molds, lightly buffing between coats once it hazes.
- Apply a thin coat of Fiberglass Safe Form Release to the Inner and Outer Molds.
- Place Molds together- the Alignment Bumps built into the Molds will make it so you can't do this wrong! Silicone is usually not needed on these molds, but you may wish to use it to prevent water from seeping out between the two Molds. If you do, just create a very small bead of silicone on the Outer Mold half. We have poured many of these sinks and water seepage is very minimal so we do not use silicone (an extra step removed, and demolding is easier without silicone holding things together).
- The Mold Halves can be screwed together, or secured to a casting table. Just make sure to pre-drill the holes through the fiberglass before using a screw to secure it. We just use a few clamps, and set the Molds up onto some 4x4 pieces (the clamps prevent the Molds from sitting flat on a flat table) while we fill the Molds with concrete and vibrate the piece.
- Typically for concrete countertops, the concrete mix should be an oatmeal consistency. To fill a two part vessel mold, the thicker concrete may not flow easily, and will create a larger-than-normal amount of air pockets and voids. A slightly runnier consistency to the concrete will usually work better with filling a two-part vessel sink.
- Vibrating the concrete either with a specialized vibrator or vibrating table is recommended. Fast, light tapping on the Outer Mold with a rubber mallet while filling the Molds with concrete will help remove many air pockets.
- If a drier concrete mix is used, it will create larger voids which can be the desired effect- usually when planning to fill the voids with cement slurry of a different coloring.
- Any voids in the finished concrete can be filled using a Cement Slurry.
- If the steps above were followed for the Mold Setup, then most Molds will usually pull out of the concrete with little effort.
- If the mold is difficult to remove, try:
- Compressed air shot around the Mold rim will break the suction holding the Mold in the concrete.
- Adding cold water and ice to the inside of the mold for 10 minutes will shrink the mold just enough that removal is easier.
- Using a few blocks of foam against the concrete, place a 2x4 across the Mold, and pry the Mold out using some large C-clamps, or wood working clamps. Do not over-tighten the clamps, just put some pressure on them and then resume shooting compressed air around the Mold's rim. Add a little more pressure to the clamps, and repeat the air until the mold comes free.
- Most Molds can be pushed out of the concrete by removing the drain hole plug, and pushing the Mold out through the drain hole.
- Clean Mold with a sponge after each use. Any dried cement residue can be removed with a scotch-brite pad (as outlined above in the Mold Setup section. A light muriatic acid wash (20:1, 20 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid) can also remove cement scale.
- Waxing and buffing the Mold after cleaning it use is recommended to protect the Mold until its next use.
- Damage: Any damaged areas (chips, scratches, imperfections, etc.) can be repaired using 2-Part epoxy (available for a few dollars at any hardware store- comes in a double syringe). Mix the epoxy, clean the damaged area and apply the epoxy to the damaged area. Sand smooth when dry. Wet sanding the Mold will return the damaged area to a high gloss if desired. Bondo can also be used, although it usually won't stick to the Mold as strong as epoxy will.