- SDP-23 Vessel Bowl Sink Mold Measurements:
- Diameter: 15 3/8"
- Depth*: 5 1/4" (At Drain)
- Diameter: 18 1/2"
- Depth*: 6 3/4" (At Drain)
- The SDP-23 Vessel Bowl Molds creates a round bowl vessel sink.
- A two part mold- Includes the Inner Bowl Mold (also sold individually), and Outer Vessel Bowl Shell Mold.
- Our SDP (Super Durable Polyurethane) Line of Sink Molds are made from the highest grade Polyurethane Rubber. Won't chip and crack like fiberglass, and much easier to get out of concrete after casting. A lifetime of reusability.
- The Inner Bowl Mold can be used alone to make integral sinks. If you already have the Bowl Mold, you can just order the outer shell Mold from the drop-down menu above.
- Vessel Molds can easily turn leftover concrete into revenue earning concrete sinks.
- Small style drain for bathroom lavatory size drains.
- Expressions LTD will not be held liable for any damage, misuse, or collateral damages resulting from use of any of our products.
- Watch videos of Mold Setup, Casting, and De-Molding/Removal on our Video Page.
- Apply 2-3 coats of a Mold Release Wax to both Inner and Outer Molds, lightly buffing between coats once it hazes.
- Apply a thin coat of Form Release to the Inner and Outer Molds.
- To create the vessel bowl, you will want to secure the inner bowl onto a form board. Melamine will work, but for repeated casting, use HDO Plywood. The inner bowl can be screwed to the plywood from the bottom, up in to the wood base in the sink mold. Once secured, set the outer shell over the sink mold, make any needed measurements and adjustments to ensure it's centered, and them mark it's location so it can be set up quickly each time. Drill a few holes in the outer mold rim, and screw the outer shell to the plywood. Attach the drain hole knockout, and it's now ready to fill with concrete.
- Typically for concrete countertops, the concrete mix should be an oatmeal consistency. To fill a two part vessel mold, the thicker concrete may not flow easily, and will create a larger-than-normal amount of air pockets and voids. A slightly runnier consistency to the concrete will usually work better with filling a two-part vessel sink.
- Vibrating the concrete either with a specialized vibrator or vibrating table is recommended. Fast, light tapping on the Outer Mold with a rubber mallet while filling the Molds with concrete will help remove many air pockets.
- If a drier concrete mix is used, it will create larger voids which can be the desired effect- usually when planning to fill the voids with cement slurry of a different coloring.
- Any voids in the finished concrete can be filled using a Cement Slurry.
- If the steps above were followed for the Mold Setup, then most Molds will usually pull out of the concrete with little effort.
- If the mold is difficult to remove, try:
- Compressed air shot around the Mold rim will break the suction holding the Mold in the concrete.
- Adding cold water and ice to the inside of the mold for 10 minutes will shrink the mold just enough that removal is easier.
- Using a few blocks of foam against the concrete, place a 2x4 across the Mold, and pry the Mold out using some large C-clamps, or wood working clamps. Do not over-tighten the clamps, just put some pressure on them and then resume shooting compressed air around the Mold's rim. Add a little more pressure to the clamps, and repeat the air until the mold comes free.
- Most Molds can be pushed out of the concrete by removing the drain hole plug, and pushing the Mold out through the drain hole.
- Clean Mold with a sponge after each use. Any dried cement residue can be removed with a scotch-brite pad (as outlined above in the Mold Setup section. A light muriatic acid wash (20:1, 20 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid) can also remove cement scale.
- Waxing and buffing the Mold after cleaning it use is recommended to protect the Mold until its next use.